August 2019 - Big Guy Tiny Trailer

Stratford-upon-Avon and Wales, UK Summer Tour

Lastly, we visited Stratford-upon-Avon and Wales on our Collette British Landscapes Tour. Two other posts, London and York, United Kingdom Summer Tour and Edinburgh, United Kingdom Summer Tour describe earlier parts of the tour.

While on the way to Wales, we rode by coach along the northeastern border of England through the beautiful Lakes District.

The Lakes District

The Lakes District is a very mountainous region that is very popular with hikers and campers. It was so nice to travel through that lovely part of England. It was very overcast as you can see in the photo below. The purple flower is heather and it was abundant in Scotland and northern England.

While in the Lakes District, we stopped for lunch at Grasmere. It is a village where the poet, Wordsworth, lived. He called it, “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found.” Grasmere is also known for its gingerbread, which is made using a hundred and fifty year-old recipe that is kept in a bank vault. It was quite different, but delicious.

Wales

Wales is a mountainous country in Great Britain with probably the most beautiful countryside of our trip. It has a distinctive Welsh language and a strong Celtic culture.

Ruthin Castle

We had one night in Wales at Ruthin Castle , a medieval fortress that was built in the thirteenth century. If those walls could talk! We have visited many ancient castles, but this was our first opportunity to sleep in one. Ruthin Castle is reputed to be haunted by the Grey Lady, who presumably murdered her husband’s lover with an axe and consequently, was sentenced to death. Ghost or not, it was an amazing castle.

Our room in the castle had modern conveniences and a great view. The bathroom was totally modern. We had a mysterious incident with a luggage lock that freaked me out just a bit, but we slept like babies.

The grounds at Ruthin were beautiful and there were multiple peacocks roaming around.

Dinner was in the castle with the entire group. Afterwards, a charming Welsh lady told us stories about the castle and the area. She sang to the men in our group in Gaelic, hugging each one. It was amusing to watch their reactions. The next morning we headed to Stratford-upon-Avon.

Stratford-upon-Avon

Stratford was the home of William Shakespeare, considered the greatest writer of the English language. He is also the best-selling fiction author of all time. Consequently, Stratford plays homage to him in many ways. There is a large Shakespearean theatre, a monument, his birthplace, and his daughter’s home. Lastly, he is buried there at Trinity Church.

We had two nights in Stratford at the Doubletree. It was just a short walk from the City Centre. The tour devoted one day to sightseeing in Stratford. We toured Shakespeare’s birthplace in the morning and took a cruise on the Avon in the afternoon.

Writers from all over the world have etched their names in a window in the birthplace home because it has been a pilgrimage for many.

Window in Shakespeare’s Birthplace in Stratford — Window in Shakespeare’s Birthplace

Trinity Church in Stratford — Trinity Church

Our cruise on the Avon was so relaxing. As an added bonus, we went through a lock. This was a first for us. It was manually operated.

Lock on the Avon River at Stratford — Lock on the Avon River

The next morning, we headed to Stonehenge.

Stonehenge

Stonehenge is considered the world’s most famous prehistoric monument because parts of it are estimated to have been built approximately 5,000 years ago. The stone circle is thought to have been erected in about 2500 BC. Some think it was built to study the movements of the sun and moon. Others think it was a place of healing.

The Cotswolds

After Stonehenge, we drove to the Cotswolds. The government has designed the Cotswolds an Area of Outstanding Beauty because of its honey-colored towns built on rolling hills.

Lunch was in Burton-on-Water in Gloucestershire. I had Welsh Rarebit and it was quite good. We both had hot tea as we loved to do on the tour. While lunch was delicious, it did not leave much time for exploring.

Cotswold stone building — Cotswold Stone building

Back to Stratford-on-Avon

We returned to the Doubletree in Stratford for the last night of the tour. There was a farewell dinner at Hall’s Croft, the home of Shakespeare’s daughter and her physician husband. The house dates back to the early 1600s and consequently, has extensive artifacts from the time.

Hall’s Croft in Stratford — Hall’s Croft

While dining, two Shakespearean actors performed scenes from several plays. It was so wonderful!

The next morning, most of our group rode in the coach for the two-hour drive to the airport. Lastly, we said goodbye to our new friends and our fabulous Collette guide, April, and our excellent driver, Skippy. We highly recommend Collette Tours!

Edinburgh, United Kingdom Summer Tour

Getting to Scotland

Edinburgh is just across the English border in Scotland, which was the second leg of our Collette British Landscapes Tour. This post picks up after my first post, London and York, United Kingdom Summer Tour.

A large rock rock marks the border with England written on one side and Scotland on the other. We stopped and took some photos. It was very windy and cooler than our time in England had been. The countryside looked different too, with purple heather blooming everywhere and cows and sheep always in sight.

We stopped for lunch in Jedburgh, a small town just past the border. There was a big shopping facility with a restaurant. I bought a pair of earrings made from heather. We had a delicious and inexpensive lunch that was described as “Tea for Two”. It was wonderful. Small sandwiches of our choice, scones with clotted cream and jam, tea, and cupcakes for dessert beautifully presented.

It rained while we were inside, but cleared before we departed . We were very fortunate this way regarding the weather for our entire trip—it rained while we were inside or on the coach most of the time.

Edinburgh

Our hotel was the Apex Grassmarket, a modern hotel right in the center of Old Town. We had two nights there. During our stay, the world’s largest annual international arts festival, The Fringe, was taking place. It coincided with the Royal Military Tattoo, which was included on our tour. Consequently, Edinburgh was very, very crowded.

Dinner that night was with the group. We rode by coach to New Town, which began in the 1760s. It was where the rich moved to to get away from the overcrowding of Old Town.

We ate at Stac Polly, which was not our favorite. The food was average, but the room was very hot and stuffy and there was no air conditioning. The staff was not overly pleasant either. I wouldn’t want to return to that restaurant.

City Tour

A city tour was provided by Sandra, a local guide. We toured by coach through town and then stopped at the Palace of Holyrood, the official house of the British monarch in Scotland. It has been home to the King and Queen of Scots since the 16th century. The Palace is attached to the ruins of an abbey founded in 1128.

Sandra gave us an overview of the history of the castle and of the life of Mary, Queen of Scots, a major historical figure at the palace and the castle. We were able to tour the palace at our own pace with headsets to inform about each area. It was very interesting, particularly the history regarding Mary. One modern item was also there. Meghan Markle’s wedding dress was on display and it was simply beautiful.

Photos were only allowed outside the palace, so we took some shots of the gardens. The grounds were absolutely stunning.

Finally, the castle was on our tour. Our coach driver, Skippy, dropped us off a couple of blocks away. We walked up the hill to access the castle, which stands on volcanic rock. Archeologists have established that humans were present going back to the 2nd century and its history goes back 1100 years. Consequently, it was under seize 26 times. The castle is also the site of the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.

The castle overlooks the city, so you can see all the way to the North Sea. The view is breathtaking!

View from the top of Edinburgh Castle — View from the top

We had afternoon tea at the Castle’s Tea Rooms. The tea was exotic to us, a lemon and elderberry. It was very good.

National Museum of Scotland

The afternoon was free time, so we walked to the National Museum of Scotland. It is a very eclectic museum, with modes of travel (old car, locomotive, and airplane), wildlife and natural history, Dolly the cloned sheep, and clothing throughout many periods. I particularly enjoyed looking at some of the clothing, can’t say why.

Dinner was on our own and we had the best fish and chips ever for both of us at a little restaurant near our hotel, Uncles Fish and Chips Cafe. They were also very helpful in identifying a Scotch Whiskey for me. It was Deanston Single Malt and I really enjoyed it. I believe it was also the best meal of our trip.

The Edinburgh Royal Military Tattoo

This was the 69th annual Military Tatoo. Each one is different and the performance also occurs outside—rain or shine. Military bands come from all over the world. The performances are very creative. It exceeded all my expectations! They hold the Tattoo just outside Edinburgh Castle and it is certainly a spectacle. The music and precision marching of the bands was beautiful to watch. Fires were burning at the castle and lights were projected on it during the show.

Furthermore, they played four songs that I love. They were: “Amazing Grace”, Queen’s “The Show Must Go On”, and The Greatest Showman’s “The Greatest Show”, and “This is Me”. That sealed it for me; my favorite part of the entire tour was the Tattoo! So I really want to see it again sometime.

We left early the next morning in the coach and enjoyed the beautiful Scottish countryside.

Gretna Green

Gretna Green was such a delightful surprise! April, our tour guide, told us we would be stopping at a popular place for weddings related to a younger age requirement. However, I was unprepared for how wonderful it would be.

It became a place for weddings in 1754, when the Marriage Act in England required several rules for marriage including an age of twenty-one to avoid parental permission. Gretna Green, just over the Scottish border, did not have the age requirement, so it became a marriage destination. Since that time, it is known for romance and runaway lovers.

Gretna Green was a blacksmith’s shop so its priests were known as ‘anvil priests’. Thousands of couples from all over the world are married there each year.

At the blacksmith’s Anvil at Gretna Green — At the blacksmith’s anvil

Gretna Green Statue Te. If Dance — Gretna Green Statue, The Big Dance

We loved everything about our time in Scotland, but especially the Tattoo. Next, we headed to Wales and then Stratford-upon-Avon, which are in my last post for the tour. Stratford-upon-Avon and Wales, UK Summer Tour

London and York, United Kingdom Summer Tour

London and York

London and York were a part of a United Kingdom tour that we booked. It was Collette’s British Landscapes Tour through Alabama Public Television. Since we were traveling in August, the high season, it meant longer days, better weather, but unfortunately larger crowds. As a Downton Abbey fan, I was excited that Highclere Castle, the location of the show, was part of the tour. Our tour group of 38 people had nine nights in the UK, but we really saw a lot in those few days.

London

During our visit, London was extremely crowded. However, there is history and beautiful ancient architecture in abundance to make it worth the challenges. Our hotel, the Leonardo Royal Hotel, was a few blocks from the London Tower. It was very nice and just a couple of blocks from the London Tube.

Unfortunately, London was hosting a bike race the weekend of our visit, which greatly hindered our tours ability to get around and caused significant delays. Still, we saw quite a bit.

London Tower

We had a few free hours, so we walked to the Tower and purchased tickets. The Tower has an interesting history dating back to the 1070s. Currently, it houses the Crown Jewels and the infamous Tower Ravens. However, in the past it imprisoned and tortured many famous people. Unfortunately, we were so jet-lagged that we were pretty much walking zombies.

The famous Tower Bridge was a sight to see. We walked to the north side of the river and sat on a bench, but were soon nodding off. Not feeling safe to sleep on a bench, we headed back to the hotel.

Dinner was with the group at The Inn of Court. I had a meat pie and minted green peas that I liked, but my husband did not like most of his meal. It was our first real opportunity to get to know some of our traveling companions.

Highclere Castle

Highclere Castle is in Hampshire, a couple of hours away from London. It is the home of the 8th Earl of Carnarvon, but is more widely known as the filming location for Downton Abbey. Our coach transported us there from London on our first full day. I was thrilled to be seeing it in person.

The castle was even more than I expected. The rooms were incredible—so opulent, but still familiar. One would almost expect to see a cast member from the show appear.

A King Tut exhibit is on the lower level of the castle. The 5th Earl of Carnarvon and a colleague discovered the tomb in 1923. Consequently, the castle houses an extensive collection of artifacts, including the mummified remains. I had no idea it was there, so it was an added bonus.

We had tea and scones with clotted cream and jam at a cafe behind the castle. Next, we had cocktails made with a special gin that had botanicals from the estate. Flavored gin is a pretty big thing in England right now.

Grounds of Highclere Castle — Tea and scones at the castle

Photos were allowed outside and in the garden, but not inside. The gardens were lovely and so peaceful.

Highclere Castle Garden — Highclere Garden

Highclere was everything I hoped it would be. So we arrived back in London with a few hours free. The bike race still had roads blocked so we just walked the areas near the hotel and had dinner at a nearby pub, The Minories. The fish and chips was quite good.

Tour of London

First, a local guide took us on a tour of London in the Collette coach. We saw many rather famous landmarks including Westminster Abbey, Saint Paul’s Cathedral, and Buckingham Palace. Unfortunately, Big Ben was behind scaffolding while undergoing renovations.

London from the Tower Bridge — London from The Tower Bridge

Westminster Abbey In London — Westminster Abbey

We saw the end of the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace. I could not believe the number of people in the area. The changing of the guard was exciting to see—the prancing of the horses, the precision of the marching, and the music. So we loved it!

Victoria Memorial atBuckingham Palace — Victoria Memorial at Buckingham Palace

London’s Fab Food Tour

Finally, we went on walking tour of London’s food with Eric, a local guide. It began in Spitalfields, a local market for food, fashion, and arts. There has been a market at that location for over 350 years. I would love to go back and spend more time there.

We had wine and cheese at Bedales, a small serving of fish and chips at Poppies, a full curry meal at Aladdin on Brick Lane, ales at The Pride of Spitalfields, and bread pudding at The English Restaurant. The fish and bread pudding were favorites of our group. Eric also gave us an overview of the history in the area. So, well-fed and educated on the area, we took the Tube, London’s subway, back to our hotel. Our second day in London was over and we were to head for York with a stop in Cambridge the next morning.

The English Restaurant in London — The English Restaurant

Cambridge

We stopped at Cambridge for a couple of hours on our way to York. Cambridge University has 31 colleges, with some dating back to the 12th century. It is a beautiful city with ancient architecture everywhere one might look. However, with limited time, we focused on King’s College, founded by Henry VI in 1441.

While there, we has crepes at a local restaurant. However, it took awhile for them to be served, which really cut into our time.

York

York was founded in 71 AD by the Romans, but it is famous for the Magnificent York Minster and its city walls. We spent one night just outside the city walls at the Doubletree.

City Walls

The city walls were interesting because they encircle the City Centre. At 3.4 kilometers long, hence they are the longest medieval town walls in England. While walking them, you can view sections of ancient Roman walls.

The Minster

The York Minster is perhaps the main attraction in York. Its official name is the Cathedral and Metropolitical Church of Saint Peter in York. It is the second-largest Gothic Cathedral in Northern Europe. Construction was from 1230 to 1472. It is still an active church and a service was occurring while we were there.

The Shambles

The Shambles is a medieval shopping street which has overhanging timber-framed buildings, some dating to the fourteenth century. It has mistakenly been attributed to Diagon Alley in Harry Potter films. It certainly has the look.

The Flavors of Yorkshire was an option we took on our tour. It included an ale tasting and a three-course dinner at the Chopping Block at Walmgate Ale House. The restaurant is in a 17th century building that is reputed to be haunted. The roast beef with Yorkshire pudding was quite good and I have become a big fan of sticky toffee pudding, which was served at most of the restaurants.

York was such fun! We would have liked more time in York, but that was true of all our stops. The next morning we departed early for Edinburgh. However, we stopped at Hadrian’s Wall on the way.

Hadrian’s Wall

The Roman Emperor, Hadrian, built a 73-mile wall between England and Scotland in A.D. 122. It was constructed using nearby materials. In some places it was almost ten feet wide and over sixteen feet tall. It’s purpose was to keep out the Scottish people. Today, it is a National Trail. The section we visited was right next to some beautiful horses.

The next leg of our tour is in a separate post, Edinburgh, United Kingdom Summer Tour.

We so loved seeing London and York! It would be great to go back someday.