September 2024 - Big Guy Tiny Trailer

Spyer Germany

Spyer

The third German city on our Viking Rhine River Cruise was Spyer. It is notable because of its prominent place in history, its ancient history and cathedral, and its religious significance to the Protestant movement in the sixteenth century.

Spyer was a treat for me because of its wonderful examples of Romanesque and Baroque architecture.

Ancient Spyer

The city was a Roman camp in the year 10 BC. However, it later became a predominant area of power. For example, eight Roman-German emperors and kings were laid to rest in a crypt in the cathedral. Statues of some of these emperors are displayed in the garden nearby. The statues were originally placed in Berlin, but were moved to Spyer in 1964.

Statue in Spyer — Konrad II & Gisela, Regin 1024-1039

The Cathedral

Below is a photo of the Spyer Cathedral, west entrance. It is certainly the main attraction in the city. Construction was from 1080 to 1120, making it the largest Romanesque cathedral in the world. The style is balanced and symmetrical, with clear lines.

The model below serves to clarify the size and shape of the cathedral. It is certainly large at 439 feet long and 123 feet wide. The tallest spire is just under 234 feet.

I believe this is the southern side of the cathedral and our first glimpse of the cathedral after going through the courtyard with the statues. It is enormous from this side.

Beside the cathedral is the “ Mount of Olives” sculpture. It depicts the night before the Jesus was crucified. A 17th century fire destroyed parts of the original work. Sculptor, Gottfried Renn included the surviving parts in the 1856 replacement. A rooster above represents the denial of Christ by Peter before the cock crows.

Mount of Olives statue in Spyer — Mount of Olives

The bowl at the west entrance has an interesting history. It was a part of church territory and prisoners sought escape by running to the bowl for protection by the church. Priests also filled the bowl with wine for citizens to share as a welcome to a new bishop.

The entrance features multiple Roman arches. A massive, carved door also adds drama to the entrance.

The interior was not especially ornate, yet it was quite lovely. Again, the Roman arches were a dominant aspect.

Spyer and the Protestant Movement

Martin Luther was a German monk and university professor. He started a reformation movement in 1517 by posting his 95 theses upon the door of the Wittenberg castle church. The theses objected to the greed of the medieval Catholic Church. Luther also didn’t believe that the church had the power to pardon sin. It was the beginning of a great split in the church.

Martin Luther continued to write about his beliefs and had many followers. Consequently, the Catholic Church declared him a heretic. He and his teachings were banned.

During the reformation era, Spyer was often a location for Imperial politics. A meeting of political leaders was called a “Diet.” At the Diet of 1529, the emperor didn’t attend, but sent his brother, Ferdinand. He argued for a law that anyone could believe whatever they want, but the Catholic Church would be the religion of the land.

Six princes who supported reformation wrote a lengthy and compelling protest on behalf of themselves and anyone in the future who believed as they did. This protest letter gave the name Protestant to the reformation movement.

Trinity Church

Trinity is a protestant church and the oldest of five Protestant churches in Spyer. Construction first began on the beautiful baroque-style Trinity Church in 1701.

It is my understanding that the citizens of Spyer have been predominantly Protestant since reformation.

The doors were locked, so we couldn’t enter the church. However, I took a picture through the door. I would have loved to get a closer look at that ceiling.

A statue of The Saint James Pilgrim stands near the right of the church. It is a striking image.

St. James Pilgrim at Spyer — The St. James Pilgrim

Other City Sights

The Old Mint appears to be used for various retail purposes. It is another gorgeous example of baroque architecture.

My research failed to identify anything about this building, but I’m sure it too has a story to tell. It also looks quite old.

The administration building is enormous. It is the location of the mayor’s headquarters. I would have liked to know more about this building

Administration building in Spyer — Administrative Building

Our guide, Alfred, presented much historical information about his city. He provided religious content for the reformation.

Spyer, In conclusion

To sum up Spyer, old world history and religion looms large. The massive cathedral and the activity around the Protestant movement are important parts of its identity. Additionally, I researched some of its history. A lot can happen in two thousand years. To me, it is a city that has undergone a lot of changes, but much evidence of its past remains.

Lastly, our Viking Rhine River Cruise included multiple cathedrals and churches. Check out Cologne and a Cathedral to see a quite different cathedral.

Koblenz Germany, An Ancient City

Koblenz

Koblenz was the second German city on our recent Viking River cruise. It is one of the oldest cities in Germany, dating back over 2,000 years. It began as a Roman city in 9 BC and was a Frankish royal seat in the 6th century. Much later, its medieval history included the Order of Teutonic Knights beginning in 1216.

It was a gorgeous, sunny day for our tour. While waiting for it to begin, I noticed the sycamore tree in the photo below. I am not aware of ever seeing a tree like it before. It was quite beautiful. We also saw many more sycamores on our tour of Koblenz that day.

Our Guide

Our Viking local guide, Karin, was amazing! She is 84 years old and incredibly sharp. Moreover, she did not appear to have any mobility issues. Her knowledge of the city was nice, but more importantly, her positive attitude and the successful way she is aging was inspirational.

Our Koblenz local guide — Karin, Our local guide

The German Corner

Koblenz is at a strategic place at the crossing point of the Rhine and Mosel Rivers. Thus, it became known as the “German Corner.” Germany and France has hotly disputed the area throughout history.

The statue below of William I is a monument for a unified Germany, which was originally erected in 1897. The original was destroyed during WW II, but a copy was reinstated in 1993 when German unity was considered complete.

Koblenz’s Old Town

Our tour of Kloblenz was exclusively in the Old Town and there was a lot to see. However, I understand that there are parts of the city that are quite modern.

The giant thumb below was the work of artist, Cesar Baldaccini. It is a six-foot bronze work modeled upon the artist’s thumb. The detail in the sculpture was impressive!

The historic building below currently houses the Ludwig Museum. We did not have an opportunity to visit, but enjoyed the exterior of the 800 year old structure that began as Teutonic Knight’s House.

Ludwig Museum located in historic Teutonic Knights House 1216

There is a lovely restaurant, Addacio, to the right in the photo below. But, it was not yet open during our tour. However, the owner allowed our tour guide’s group to use their restroom. It was so nice! If I should find myself in Koblenz again, I would love to have a meal there.

The City Hall dates to 1695 and includes three connected buildings with different styles of architecture. The building was a Jesuit school during the 1600s. The hall is located on what is called Jesuit’s Square.

Koblenz Churches

Basilica of St. Castor

The Basilica of St. Castor is the oldest Koblenz church, which was originally constructed in the 9th century. Through excavations, they have uncovered evidence that the site was used for religious ceremonies as far back as the first century.

Our tour didn’t have access to the church, but I sure would have loved to go inside.

The grounds in the photo below were adjacent to the basilica. It was a pristine and lush area.

City Church

A nondenominational city church is housed in the building that was formerly a Jesuit structure. The entrance is beautiful and is very much old world.

Koblenz Jesuit structure — City Church formerly Jesuit building in 1200

The inside of the church is much more modern. Our tour guide told us that she attends this church and she was also married there.

An enormous peacebell is at the front of the church.

The Spitting Boy

The French occupied Koblenz in 1794 – 1814 and it resulted in many boys born to French soldiers and German women. The boys were street urchins and known for pranks. Subsequently, Koblenz residents have embraced the idea of those cheeky boys as being clever and fun-loving.

The Spitting Boy Fountain pays homage to those boys. It’s base has images of these boys acting in mischievous way. Intermittently, the boy on top of the fountain spews a stream of water that extends beyond the fountain.

The city also embraces the spitting boy in other ways. For example, it displays the image of the boy upon its manholes.

Other City Sights in Koblenz

The area of the city we visited included cobblestoned streets and some interesting small shops.

I found the gorilla in the store window very expressive. Didn’t feel the need to buy it, but I liked it.

A tram runs through the city, but barely fits in the narrow street.

Koblenz In Conclusion

So, Koblenz was fun and a little bit whimsical. It certainly wasn’t something that I expected from this ancient city, but it was another wonderful day on our Viking Rhine River Cruise.

Our previous stop in Germany was Cologne. If you have an interest in German cities , check it out.

Cologne and a Cathedral

Cologne

Cologne was the first German stop on our Viking cruise and our first time in the country. I have German roots on my father’s side, so I felt a special affinity for the country.

The air was crisp and the temperature mild. It was such a perfect day to tour the city! A motor coach transported us from the drop off point on the Rhine river into the city and we saw a bit of residential area and countryside.

The Cathedral

Firstly, our local Viking tour guide first took us to the Cologne Cathedral , the largest Gothic church in Northern Europe and one of Germany’s most famous landmarks. Its twin towers dominate the Cologne skyline. The cathedral is also a World Heritage Site and the most visited site in Germany.

They began construction on the cathedral in 1248, but did not finish it until 1880. Lengthy interruptions occurred due to war and financial difficulties. They built the cathedral to enshrine the bones of the Three Wise Men. The shrine is located in the back of the cathedral. We had limited access inside because it was Sunday. So, we couldn’t view the shrine.

While we could view and photograph from the back of the cathedral, we couldn’t go beyond.

Church personnel had roped off the main area because a mass was being held.

Cologne Cathedral — A Sunday service was occurring

Prayer candles and ancient artwork were in the back of the church and were also accessible to visitors.

The builders had placed many statues of biblical heroes upon the facade of the church. From my research, I believe that the two below are Elijah and King Solomon.

Pollution causes the dark areas of the cathedral and, therefore, it is an ongoing effort to clean the exterior. As soon as the last area is cleaned, the earlier areas that were cleaned need it again.

Lastly, we learned that the cathedral was damaged from bombs by the Allies during WW II. The damage was repaired though.

The Rest of the Tour

While the cathedral was a main portion of our tour, we subsequently saw a few more areas of interest. Our guide, Ulrika, certainly was a hoot. She had a great, somewhat quirky, sense of humor. I really enjoyed her!

Stumbling Stones

The stumbling stones below were in an area near the cathedral in front of some shops. Ulrika explained their meaning. They have laid over 70,000 of these blocks throughout Europe and Russia. Many of the stones are financed by schoolchildren who learn of their meaning and about former residents in their area. They place the stones where the victims previously lived. The victim’s name, date of birth, date of death, and method of death are etched on the stone.

I was very touched by this way they are remembering the victims of the Nazi regime.

Stumbling stone in Cologne — Stumbling Stone

Heinzelmannchen Fountain

The city established the water fountain below in 1900 as art that depicts a legend. The Heinzelmannchen were a mythical race of gnomes who, according to legend, did the mundane work during the night for Cologne residents. A tailor’s wife wanted to see them and spread peas to make them slip and fall. They became angry and never returned. Thus, the residents of Cologne had to do the work themselves.

Fountain in Cologne — Heinzelmannchen Fountain

Cars and Bikes

We didn’t see the massive number of bikes like in the Netherlands, but we did see more than in the United States. Also, we saw this very tiny one-person car.

The Chocolate Museum

Our tour guide mentioned the Chocolate Museum during our tour. We returned to our ship with our “leisurely” group for lunch. We came back later that afternoon to visit the museum.

A giant Ferris wheel spins to its side. The museum has all you could ever want to know about chocolate and the displays cover multiple floors.

Chocolate Museum in Cologne — Chocolate Museum

The exhibits had information on how cocoa beans are harvested, a history of chocolate, plus some antique vending machines and chocolate cups. Chocolate-making machines were also on display.

They gave us some samples. Yum!

Afterwards, we ordered the local beer of Cologne. There were beautiful pastries and candies in this restaurant, but we didn’t have the time or appetite.

A Rickshaw Ride

Our trip to and from the museum was via rickshaw. Our Viking desk arranged it for us through “Let It Roll.” It was a lovely experience. Our two drivers were friendly and helpful .

A Beautiful Sunset

After dinner, we watched the sunset across the Rhine with the cathedral in view. It was a beautiful end to the day!

View of Cologne at sunset — View of the cathedral across the Rhine

In Conclusion

We only had one day in this beautiful city and couldn’t do everything, but we saw a lot. I somewhat wish we had stayed on the other side of the bridge instead of going back to the ship for lunch. However, we are limited in what we can do physically and it was probably good that we didn’t push ourselves too hard. Travel while young and healthy if you can!

We love to travel, so my blogs have covered a lot of territory. We visited Kinderdijk in the Netherlands just before this stop. Check it out!

Windmills of Kinderdijk

I didn’t know much about windmills before we visited Kinderdijk
as part of a Viking River cruise. I knew that they were a symbol of the Netherlands and had a general idea how they looked, but that was the extent of it.

This was the first stop on our cruise and it was very memorable. We disembarked our ship, crossed a quiet street, walked down a short path, and entered a historic area that is much like it was hundreds of years ago.

Kinderdijk is about an hour’s drive from Amsterdam, but it evokes a feeling of a very different place—very rural and rustic. I learned that most of the land in the area is about two meters below sea level. Windmills enabled the people to live on this low-lying land over 700 years ago.

Currently, there are 19 circa 1740 windmills on site that are approximately 128 feet tall. At least one windmill is always keep operating.

The Tour

Our tour guide was Peit, a retired English teacher who was born in the Kinderdijk area. He is a volunteer and was a great guide because he was wonderfully enthusiastic about the windmills and very proud of the history of the area.

It was a beautiful walk to the windmills. They stood majestically in the distance with the one lone windmill spinning in the wind. Along the way, there were many paths to walk or bike. It was very cloudy day, but thankfully, no rain.

Pumping Stations

Later, residents replaced the windmills with a pumping station, the Weisboom, built in 1868. It was originally steam powered, but they later replaced it with an electric engine.

Eventually, additional pumping capacity was added with a second pumping station.

The Cat’s Cradle

The monument below was in the water near the windmills. It is to pay tribute to a legend that dates back to 1421 and a great flood. The cat was said to be jumping back and forth to keep the cradle with a baby inside from toppling over. There are various versions of details of the story. Also, Dutch children give their pet kittens new collars on St. Nicolas Day to honor the cat.

Reeds for Roofs

Reeds were and still are abundant in the area. They played an important role in the construction of the windmills because the thatch roofs on the structures were made from them.

Active Windmill

The tour allowed visitors to get very close to the active museum windmill and to go inside if desired.

Windmill at Kinderdijk — The wind was actively blowing

We crossed over to the other side of the structure, beyond the spinning blades. The wind was whipping them through the air with a big whooshing sound. Though we knew we out of the reach of the blades, it was slightly scary walking under them.

One of the windmills — It was intimidating up close

The Interior

Whole families lived in the windmills during a time when families were usually very large. Those who took care of the mill were called millwrights.

It must have been challenging to find a sleeping spot for each family member.

The kitchen was rather compact.

The first floor was furnished in a manner similar to how it would have been when the water was controlled by the windmills.

The second floor was more narrow and the shaft was in the center.

There was no access to the top floor, but we could see it.

We learned that people currently live in these windmills, but, they are more modern inside. At least one member of the household must have a miller’s degree to take care of it.

Some Local Hydrangeas

The flowers below were on the pathway to the windmill museum. I like to remember pretty things along the way.

In Conclusion

This tour brought a different time and place alive for me. It was a fabulous start to our river cruise. If interested in the beginning of this trip, check out a post about our extension in Amsterdam.

Amsterdam, City of Bicycles

Amsterdam

Amsterdam is a very dynamic and charming city. It was our first visit to the Netherlands and its capital was a wonderful two days for us. The city was an extension to a Viking River Cruise and we are so glad we were able to spend some time in this iconic city. Amsterdam is most widely-known for windmills, canals, tulips, cheese, and the Dutch Masters. I think it should also be known for bicycles!

Amsterdam’s people

The people we encountered were friendly and welcoming. However, in one way, they are different from people from the United States and other countries we have visited. They have more than a million bikes in the city, more than one for each person and it is their principal form of transportation. The people were lean and are undoubtedly more fit than those with more passive transportation.

Many families do not own a car. The streets are so narrow and the parking so limited that it makes car ownership undesirable. They do, however, have access to cars. An app identifies nearby cars and enables access to them. They just park it in their final destination. Our local guide, a young married woman with a small child shared this information. They did not own a car.

However, this means that during cold and rain, it’s just them and a bicycle! Daytime temperatures in January are in the low 40s and the average is low 30s at night. They are a hearty bunch!

Consequently, bikes were everywhere, as were wide bike lanes. The city also has a tram system that some of our fellow travelers used. We used Uber while there and it worked well. Our Uber driver had a hybrid and he told us all taxis must be all electric in 2025.

Our Hotel

Hotel Okura in Amsterdam is a five star hotel and very luxurious. We do not normally travel in such style. A canal runs on the right of it and many nice restaurants are within walking distance. The hotel has a swimming pool, spa, and several restaurants. I believe a couple of them have Michelin stars.

Our room was comfortable and quite nice. The unbelievable breakfast buffet, which was included, was the best part of the hotel. Everything imaginable was on it, including Japanese items. The staff were especially attentive. I will remember those two breakfasts for many years to come.

Our room on the fourteenth floor had a great view of one of the canals and a part of the city.

View of Amsterdam canal — View from our room of Amstelkanaal

Amsterdam Cuisine

Though jet-lagged, we ventured out on our first day to an Italian restaurant, Insieme Ristorante, near our hotel. According to our waiter, the owner is from Sardinia and the food was authentic Italian.

A delicious dinner at Insieme Ristorante

I ordered the special, though having no idea what to expect. Gnocchi with a beet sauce, cheese, and crispy tomato. The presentation was attractive and the dish was so delicious. It was also served with beautifully-presented bread.

I also ordered the recommended wine, Primitivo Di Manduria, a 1922 Le Vigne Di Sammarco. It was on of the best red wines I have ever tasted. I have looked for it since arriving home, but haven’t located the exact wine in that year.

Dessert was tiramisu, which is a specialty of the restaurant. I love fancy food, but my husband is more a big steak man. Overall, this meal was one of my most memorable.

Tour of Amsterdam

Viking provided a local guide for a two-hour tour of the city. We took an extensive walk of the city and she shared details of her life in Amsterdam, the city’s culture, history, and architecture.

Interesting Sites

The Heineken Brewery is located in Amsterdam. We had several of its beers while on our trip, but unfortunately, we didn’t have time to tour the facility.

A street market was on our tour. The dragon fruit drew my eye because it is so colorful. I didn’t stop to try the fruit though.

Colorful Dragon Fruit in the local market

Amsterdamers were on almost every street. Each has the symbol of Amsterdam on it, three Xs. The Xs represent the threats to old Amsterdam: fire, flood, and disease.

We passed the building below on our tour. I loved the unique look of this art gallery. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to go inside

Our guide informed us that “Coffee” shops whose signs were in English also sell cannabis products. The city “tolerates” those soft drugs.

There were many small shops on our walking tour. The shop in the photo below sells a particular kind of fish that is eaten by hand. The girl in the photo is wearing the traditional Dutch clothing. The image was compelling.

Classic Dutch attire and method for eating a particular kind of fish

Amsterdam Canals

Amsterdam has three 17th century canals: Gentleman’s (Henrengracht), Prince’s (Prisengracht) , Emperor’s (Keizersgracht). Bikes and cars often fall into the canals: over 12,000 bikes and an average of 35 cars are pulled from the canals each year.

Below is a shot of the Singelgracht, an outer canal designed for defense and water maintenance. It served as a moat to medieval Amsterdam from 1480 to 1585 when the city expanded beyond it. So, it was then no longer a defensive canal.

Amsterdam Singel canal — Singelgracht Canal in Amsterdam

National Museum

The Rijksmuseum is a gorgeous structure. It is the national museum of the Netherlands. It was founded in 1798 and it covers 800 years of Dutch history and the Dutch masters including Rembrandt, Vermeer, and Van Gogh. I am very sad that our time and energy did not include a visit to the interior. But, we enjoyed the exterior, which was built starting in 1876.

Below is a park behind the museum. This area was where our tour ended and we both were very tired. We shared a water with some friends from the Viking tour there. It was so good to sit down!

A Canal Ride

To rest after our tour, we took a canal ride. Our guide recommended this company. It was relatively inexpensive and allowed us to see more of the city. The ride included recorded information about landmarks along the way.

The original tower below was built in 1516 as part of a defensive wall around Amsterdam. The decorative part at the top was an addition in 1606. So much history in this city!

Moreover, the buildings in Amsterdam are very narrow with multiple floors. The date they were built is displayed on the older buildings, like the 1590 date on the building below.

Note the date of the building in the center

Anne Frank House

Tickets to the Anne Frank house had to be purchased weeks ahead. Tickets become available on a specific day for the following couple of weeks. I set my clock for the middle of the night on the date the tickets dropped and snagged an afternoon entry time for our full day in Amsterdam. The photo below is the front of the house.

Anne and her family had been in hiding for two years when the Gestapo discovered them. Afterwards, Anne and her sister, Margot, died in a concentration camp and her mother died in Auschwitz. Only her father survived the captivity. He discovered her diary which was kept during their time in the attic and it was later published. The diary is believed to be most read book in the world, second only to the Bible.

Amsterdam in Conclusion

Because we crammed a lot of activities during our short stay, it was a quite exhausting. Overall though, our two days in Amsterdam were outstanding. I really wish I could return so we could see more of it at a leisurely pace.

We also traveled to the United Kingdom in 2019 and if interested in that experience, see Edinburgh, United Kingdom Summer Tour.